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I have both axles from the front end I plan to build. They were just sitting around, so I took them apart and greased 'em up. I'll keep them for trail replacements in the event of another failed Birfield.
First step is to separate the Birfield outer axle from the inner axle.
Using a brass punch against one of the protrusions on the inner race,
A sharp blow should pop it loose. There is a spring clip at the end of the axle holding it on.
Here the little spring clip is visible at the end of the axle. The larger square edged clip keeps the Birfield from sliding to far onto the axle.
The c-clip came out in two pieces. Not good. That will require a new one for the re-assembly.
I'm taking off the other clip to facilitate proper cleaning of the splined section of the axle.
OK. Now disassembly is next for the Birfield.
With the axle out, push the cage into the housing, allowing one ball bearing to come free.
Repeat the process for each one.
Hey, two at a time works for me.
With the ball bearings out, look for the elongated slot in the cage. There are two, directly opposite each other.
Turn the cage so the long slot is positioned in front of one of the tabs of the outer housing.
Turn the cage up on it's side, and pull it out with a small rotating movement.
With a little finesse...
...it'll come right out.
A view of the inside of a stock Toyota Birfield outer axle.
The cage assembly, minus ball bearings.
Turn the inner race 90 degrees to the cage, with a tooth lined up with the long slot, rotate it out.
With all the parts out...
It's time for a little cleaning.
Now we're ready to re-assemble our axle. I love clean parts. This is the short side, or passenger side. It is the same process for the drivers side, or long side. The Toyota 4x4 front axle center differential is offset to the right, to line up with the front output flange of the transfer case. Therefore, the axles are different lengths.
Notice one end of the cage is thicker. One end of the inner race has protrusions. When re-assembling, insure that the protrusions are on the same side as the thicker end of the cage.
And that is how it goes into the housing. The thicker end of the cage and the protrusions of the inner race, face out of the opening.
Coat the pieces with a good grease. Molybendum disulphide lithium blend. I used Valvoline wheel bearing grease for Japanese vehicles.
Holding the cage at 90 degrees, line up the long slots with opposing tabs, and roll it in.
Like so.
Turn it down into position. Thick part out.
Ready for the balls.
First one in.
Rotate it down.
Do the other side.
It starts to get tough with the close tolerances, but keep working it.
Almost done.
There, got 'em all back in.
Pack the housing with grease.
I have some used c-clips I'm going to assemble the axles with. I only need these axles for spares, otherwise I'd buy some new clips. Hey, it's Sunday afternoon, and I didn't plan ahead. I had so much fun, maybe I'll buy some new clips and do this again just to put them in!
Big square one first. It's not an easy fit. It needs to slide over the splines and down into the farthest groove.
There. Then the little c-clip. The square one keeps the Birfield from going too deep onto the axle and the little one, on the edge of the splines, keep the Birfield from sliding off of the axle. The little c-clip on the end of the splines is the inner c-clip.
Here you can see the clip being pushed into it's groove on the axle, allowing the axle to snap into place.
Voila! Give the axle a tug to make sure it's seated and won't pull out.
So here it is. A complete axle assembly. Greased and ready for action. After doing the same thing to the long side, I wrapped 'em up in plastic and duct tape. I'll be taking them with me as insurance to the Hammers for the Tinbenders Jamboree in two weeks. I hope I don't need them, but if I do, it will be easy to do a Birfield repair with these ready to go. This wouldn't be necessary if I had some Longfields!
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